Thursday, January 28, 2010


notions and fabric -

.never stop looking for decent fabric.

here is a well modified pattern:
the button holes have been moved, the torso shortened and the neckline changed - it's easy, like welding.

not just patterns, but good patterns, and even those sometimes contain mistakes and always need adjusting. this one is from buckaroo bobbins, they are well explained and illustrated. most patterns (vogue, butterick, simplicity and all that garbage) are printed on tissue ('onion skin' paper, or trace (ing paper)) and need to be xeroxed onto 'bond' to be usable to humans. with patterns you need to follow the instructions to a "T" and read ahead and be accurate - the creativity is more in the picking of materials and notions.

i usually use motor oil, i bought this to burn 'extra' cash or for the convenient bottle. it really does help the machine run properly.

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

status meeting

at partners in health and brand content all week - eve's vest has been on the table for final fitting for days. i need a better buttonhole machine.

1. "vegan anarchist cyclist" hat ( in aristocrat tweed ) pattern and make 1 for eve
2. riding pants in houndstooth - for eve - buckaroo patterns
3. 'jules and jim' inspired neckwear and shirt alterations.
4. vest made of 200 year old couch cushion material
5. i forget what 5 was for

looking at the singer CG-550, need more woven black fusable interfacing.
allways need more black g├╝termann.

Saturday, January 23, 2010


measure first - then rip all of the seams out and start all over.

if you are going to make clothing you will need an iron and ironing board.

buy too much thread - running out of the proper color at 1 am sucks.

i used to (up until 2 weeks ago) do all my cutting on the floor.


do the whole world a favor and get a rotary cutter and as large as you can afford cutting mat - they go on sale at joann 'fabrics' about every half-hour.
this is the only one i have owned - got it in 1989 on a whim.

this is the last surviving sears 3/4 overlock machine from the "matt hatter" days - i used to burn through one of these a winter, and commonly had a spare still in the box waiting for it's turn. this one is a trooper, it has had several rebuilds under warranty, and about 5 replacement blades.

i bought the singer 3115 in 1992 from a friend for $75, and the table clutch and motor from james demer for $100. i bought it for the huge volume of stitching involved with my batchelor of fine arts thesis.
(no photograph available)

i bought the plastic home sewing machine new in 1990 for $120 it has 1 tuneup and still runs great within it's limitations. notice the 1/2" seam allowance marked in tape on the machine.

Friday, January 22, 2010

FIRST PROJECT: peg pants

this picture was taken in boxford during thanksgiving break from portland school of art.

this is my first car.

these ralph lauren jeans are the first thing i sewed with a machine.

using mike flarity's machine in portland mane.

prefab sprout, new order, joy division on vinyl.

also featured:
wilson's leather brown bommer jacket, blue and gray timberland hiking boots, double layered and cut t-shirts black over teal, tripod, access to a darkroom and 11x14" fiber based photo paper.

early september 1984

it's 1130 pm friday night, january 22 2010
most of my massachusetts friends are back at the lucky dog, right where i left them.
i was thinking about when i first started sewing, it was the end of the summer
before my junior year in highschool and i had just wiped out on my moped in
front the church, tearing the knee of my back-to-school gap corduroy pants (rust red).

i had to fix them before my parents came home. i used what i had - a bullet proof iron on
denim knee patch. pants inside-out and lining up the torn edges on the knee, i discreetly
labeled myself as a nerd.

(photograph not available)